Wednesday 28 April 2010

Seville Orange



Seville Orange


 My mother once wanted to book a holiday to Seville, but the woman in the travel agent, who came from northern Spain, sneered, ”Seville- it’s the frying pan of Europe!” 
This is true in the summer with temperatures in the 40‘s,but at Easter it’s lovely. You can tell the Sevillian civilians in spring, because they’re the ones wearing leather jackets, boots and scarves, while the tourists are all in shorts and t-shirts and it’s nice enough to go out in a sleeveless dress in the evening, but not so hot that you feel drained.
The Seville Fair takes place every year after Holy Week. 
Entrance to the Feria


To get to the fair, you walk past the old tower Torre D’Oro, that used to be entirely gilded and take the first bridge over the river. It’s a good spot to meet people on their way to the fair. The river is surprisingly  beautiful, calm and wide, it’s busier on the east, with wonderfully coloured houses and palm trees on the west. 

On the way to the fair

3 out of 4 ladies wear traditional costume on the way to the fair

 Pretty woman wearing an embroidered shawl


People come to show off horses, carriages and flamboyant costumes. Most of the women wear traditional flamenco dresses, bright colours and spots are favoured. Accessories are tasseled shawls, dangling earrings, red lipstick, mantillas and large brightly coloured roses, worn on top of the head. No hand bags in evidence but many fans. 

Roses grow on you

A couple having fun at the fair


Ladies in a riot of colour


Lady with big earrings and a large rose


The female horse riders, are mounted side-saddle in traditional skirts and short jackets, or wear trousers, jackets andwaistcoats. Men wear cropped jackets, wide brimmed hats and tight trousers.
A very poised lady on horseback

Side saddle style

A smart horse rider

And the carriages...


Mystery man with a cigar and girls


Skinny young man 


Laughing lady in orange dress

Teenage boy in smart suit


Cuban man and lady with giant earrings


Tiny children are smartly dressed and still wide awake at 1.00am.

Signorita in a blue dress

Even the horses are well presented, with impeccably groomed manes and tails and lovely pom-pom head decorations.

What the well dressed equine is wearing this season

You can lead a horse to water.....

It’s a lively scene, with private booths where the locals drink, eat tapas and dance.Professional Flamenco performers provide musical entertainment and dance. In the larger private areas bands sing Abba songs. Apart from the street sweepers, in fluorescent jackets, who have to use brooms and water hoses to keep on top of the quantity of horse manure, the scene is virtually exactly as it was in the 1920s.

A private booth
All ages dancing 

Oranges are delicious in Seville, the nicest we’ve ever eaten. And the colour orange is very popular in the flamenco fashions.

Bright orange is popular

Orange dress with tassels

Even the horse poo man favours orange......


Monday 26 April 2010

Toledo People

Casa Del Mozarabes, where we have been staying, is an old building with six apartments around a central courtyard. It was once owned by the church and retains much of its original character in its new guise. 

Mozarabes Front Door
Teresa manages Casa del Mozarabes - a warm and smiley person, she helps with everything needed for a great stay in Toledo, from markets to restaurants and the main attractions.
Teresa
Near the market, the staff in the fishmongers prepare our lunch of fresh anchovies and prawns. We make an unexpected discovery: George Clooney’s long lost twin.
George Clooney's brother?

Preparing Anchovies

Colin finds another four-legged friend by an antique shop.
Long haired mongrel and pedigree

In the main square, the Plaza Zocodover, well-dressed old ladies eat lollipops, and children roller skate amid the sprawling cafes and traditional marzipan shops.
Lollipop sucking ladies..

Plaza Zocodover

Thursday 22 April 2010

Toledo Steel


Toledo Steel
Toledo is a city bristling with swords. It’s as though the Knight Templars were in town for one week only and were doing all their shopping for the Crusades. 
Toledo bristles with swords
We can’t imagine who actually buys these swords or how they get onto an airplane with them. They really do make them here, and one shop proudly shows clips from ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’, as they produced the swords used in the fight scenes. 


Everything you need for a good knight
Slightly more usable are the hunting knives, again we see hundreds of them. 
Swords for the modern man
Damasquinado, or the craft of inlaying metals, in tiny intricate patterns, is still going strong and there are shops where you can watch craftsmen hammering away at their work-bench!

Damasquinado craftsman
Damasquinado detail

For the ladies who aren’t in the ‘Kill Bill’ mood, there are plenty of fans; terrible for self-defence, but useful for making bitchy remarks behind. They come in plain colours, laser-cut, lace-edged, hand painted or smudgily printed with religious scenes.
Lace edged fan
Painted detail on fan
Religious fans

Toledo is also famous as a meeting point for three religions; Islam, Judaism and Catholicism. 
Three religions in one
The Arabic influence in the fantastic Moorish architecture is apparent in several churches and synagogues, though there does’t seem to be a mosque here.There are two very beautiful ancient Synagogues, one now the Sephardi Museum and one now a church. 
Sinagoga Santa Maria la Blanca


Hebrew script, arabic decoration

Safardi couple
We like the word SINAGOGA, the Spanish for synagogue, it sounds like a 1960‘s hedonistic night club complete with Sinagoga dancers.

What is this? - Clue: ouch!

Also the Church of San Roman which features Moorish windows and faux Arabic script as painted decoration. 

Faux arabic script in San Roman Church
San Roman doorway
San Roman window

The Cathedral is magnificent, a soaring Gothic structure with many lovely chapels, a carved wooden Sacristy, and the most stunning example of Spanish Baroque art anywhere. It is called the Transparente and is carved from white marble and partly gilded. All the characters are in motion, legs swing one way, torsos twist in the opposite direction, an angel swoops down swinging the censer. The top scene features the Last Supper, and below this the Virgin Mary sits with a wriggling baby jesus, surrounded by angels and cupids. All the characters are busy doing something, often mischievous; the cupids on the left side, are squashing each others’ faces, and on the right they’re about to kiss. 

Toledo Cathedral

Baroque and Roll
Exhausted Cupid
The whole scene is supported by two reluctant cupids who seem to be labouring under the weight and missing all the fun


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